The following topics are covered in our post in more detail.

• Why You Should Have a Humidifier
• Types of Humidifiers
• How they Work
• Cleaning
• What Happens in the Summer Time
• Installation
• Maintenance

Why You Should Have a Humidifier

There are multiple reasons why the humidity in a home should be managed.  If the humidity is too high, you may risk the generation of mold and condensation on windows and window sills. The mold can be very harmful to anyone who is allergic to mold and the moisture generated by condensation on the windows can damage window sills, the drywall and even the window covering if they are in contact with the condensation.

On the other hand if the humidity level is too low in a home, especially during the winter, static electricity can bother humans as well as disturb electronic equipment to the point of damaging them. Wood based furniture will dry out and sometimes crack, hardwood floors will contact leaving gaps between strips, Humans may have dry throats and lips and your skin may feel dry.

Experts suggest that the humidity in a home be kept in the range of 30% to 50% depending on outside temperature and your own personal comfort level.

Types of Humidifiers

There are many types of humidifiers. A common type of humidifier found in many homes with forced air systems is a drum type (sometimes a wick) that is attached to the furnace and will add humidity to the entire home while the furnace is running.

Apartment dwellers often have electric or hot water heating and therefore cannot rely on a forced air type of humidifier. Stand alone drum type humidifiers are common in this environment, however they typically will only provide humidity in the room they are in. There are various types of stand alone humidifiers – drum, steam, impeller and ultrasonic to name a few.

How they Work

The drum type of humidifier, whether on a furnace or a stand alone unit operates by causing a sponge to run through a water reservoir and then air is forced through the sponge picking up water droplets and spreading the vapor throughout the room or the home. Most will have a sensor that measures the relative humidity level and when the desired level is reach will shut the humidifier off until the humidity drops below  the setting desired.

Impellers and steam humidifiers tend to run continuously until they are out of water and then they shut off. However there are many different varieties of humidifiers on the market so it is important to read the instructions prior to using them.

Cleaning

Cleaning a humidifier is very important for many reasons. First all water unless you are using distilled water, water contains various minerals, including calcium. As the water evaporates, it leaves behind these dissolved minerals causing a scale to build up on the wick or sponge and on the reservoir as well. Cleaning once a month is mandatory to maintain the efficiency of your humidifier.

Also during early fall and late in the spring, your humidifier may not operate as often due to increasing natural humidity in the air. The water tends to stagnate in the reservoir and mold can develop. When the humidifier does operate, not only are you adding water vapor to the air, you are also adding mold spores to the air in your home . Anyone with allergies will find this very unpleasant. Clean your humidifier regularly and remember to shut it off during the spring and summer.

What Happens in the Summer Time

Humidifiers with water left standing in them over the summer, may dry up and they may not depending on local conditions. Most will develop mold which is spread though your home as mentioned previously.

In addition if you leave the humidifier in operation and run the air conditioner at the same time this additional humidifier may even make your air conditioner less effective, especially on forced air systems. Turn off the humidifier, shut the water flow off and clean the unit every spring to avoid these issues.

Installation

These units are relatively easy to install. Stand alone units only need to be unpacked, filled with water and turned on usually. Humidifiers on forced air systems with connections to the return air and water intake require a few more tools and handy man skills.

Most come with sufficient instructions. You will need plumbing tools to connect the water supply, tin snips to cut the required holes in the return and hot air pipes and an electrical outlet to connect to. After reading the instructions that come with the unit, if you are uncomfortable doing this work you may be further ahead to hire a plumber to complete the installation for you.

Many new homes come with systems already installed, however be sure to review this requirement in your list of specifications.

Maintenance

As we have mentioned previously, regardless of which type you use in your home, regular maintenance and cleaning is mandatory to maintain a healthy household. Here is a short list that we have put together:

• Clean the unit a minimum of once per month
• Replace the wick or sponge if it is calcified
• Completely clean the unit at the end of the winter season
• Shut the water supply off at the end of the season
• Place a new wick or sponge in the unit at the beginning of the season
• Keep the humidity level between 30% and 50% depending on the outside temperature.

Comments are appreciated, especially those that have tips and suggestions for keeping the humidity at the right level in your home.

Another thing to remember is that you might start with replacing the faucet in the bathroom, only to realize that this is going to cause the toilet paper dispenser, the towel rack and possibly the light fixture to be replaced. You might even need to replace the mirror, the vanity and the toilet all because your spouse decided to change the faucet. Even if it is a repair, due to a leak, be ready, because a new faucet is just the beginning.

Some of the attributes that you will want to consider in selecting your new faucet include:

• Color and finish
• Style and design
• Ease of Installation, especially for do it yourself installations
• Match with the vanity and toilet
• Match with the existing sink and cupboards
• Does it make  a statement
• Contemporary, modern, etc
• Availability of decorative options such as towel racks, etc
• Warranty
• Vendor support
• Special order or off the shelf
• Price

Bathroom Faucets

There are lots of designs, colors, finishes and styles to choose from. You also must find something that matches with the existing vanity that is already  in place. We chose a Venetian Rubbed Bronze faucet with curved handles which matched the door handles. There was also a toilet paper holder and towel rack which went with this and yes, we changed the lights as well, the electrical plug, the light switch, the plates for each, the door handles, and the door hinges, all in a Venetian Rubbed Bronze finish.

Remember that the job is always going to be  larger than you expect. The faucet was not too bad. After turning the water off, cutting the pipes with a pipe cutter, removal of the existing faucet was pretty straightforward. The most difficult part of the job is that it is an awkward place to work without a lot of room. After installing the water shutoff valves, and flexible piping to connect with the ends of the faucet, I was able to install the new faucet without too much difficulty. Note that with today’s plumbing materials, there is less and less need to do any soldering. This is a good thing, since without soldering there is no chance of accidentally causing a fire or damaging something and causing yourself more work.

The light fixture was a another matter. But then this post is about faucets so we will stick with the main subject.  Of course after all of these items were replaced, including the mirror we then needed to strip wall paper, complete some plaster touch ups/repairs and then repaint the entire room including the doors and trim. Remember all of this because we wanted to change a faucet!

Kitchen Faucets

There is probably just as many different faucets to choose from and issues to consider when selecting a new faucet for the kitchen. Often a leaking faucet will trigger a much larger job for many people. Sometimes the attitude is that if we have to replace the faucet, we may as well replace the sink and the counter top. If this happens to you, be advised you are in for a much larger expensive job! And if that translates into replacing the cupboards you are into thousands of dollars!

Fortunately the most contentious issue for our faucet replacement was removal of the existing faucet.  We decided on an overall design for the kitchen and are gradually moving in that direction without taking the big plunge all at once.

We chose a brushed nickel faucet with an integrated vegetable spray and single handle control for our kitchen. Previously there were two valves, one for the cold water and the other for the hot water, along with a separate vegetable sprayer. This meant that we had 4 holes in our sink from the old faucet. Fortunately most , if not all faucets these days come with a plate that you secure to the sink which covers up all of these holes and provides an excellent professional finished look.

Our existing faucet was rusted and difficult to remove. Don’t forget to shut the water off and drain the pipes if you are trying this on your own. We used a hack saw and fortunately there was no damage to the existing sink.  Once it was off, we used the shut off valves and the flexible metal sheath hose to connect the new faucet with the newly installed shut off valves. Again no need to solder anything.

I got off lucky this time without needing to replace the sink. Since I have used shutoff valves and flexible hose, it will be quite easy to remove the new faucet and install the new sink when needed.

Do It Yourself or Hire a Professional

Many people will try some of these repairs / upgrades on their own, only to find that they really should have hired a plumber to do the installation. The most important issue is to make sure that you have a good quality installation that is not going to leak. Water damage can be extensive and very expensive if  it  goes unnoticed for any length of time.

Most people are going to find that the cost of installation by a plumber will be at least a couple of hours worth of work at the prevailing rates for your area. This is a consideration when making the decision to do your own installation or hire a professional to do the job for you.

For Attic ventilation to work properly there must be sufficient ventilation soffits around the roof. This is the area were air enters your home and flows into the rest of the attic.  If the soffit is blocked for some reason air cannot enter into your attic then regardless of the number of ventilators you have in the roof they will not be able to do their job.

Once you have established that you have suffiicient ventilation coming in through the soffits, you must then have sufficient air flow through ventilators in the roof. Attic ventilators come in various sizes and shapes and contribute esthetically to your home.  Venmar sells a number of ventilators that are sized for different sizes of roofs and also for various slopes. The specifications for attic ventilators are very important since the movement of air must be sufficient to cool your home during the summer and eliminate any possibility of condensation during the winter.

Condensation during the winter can form icicles that will form on the rafters and then later melt dripping onto the insulation. In the worst cases the water and find its way into your home through the drywall causing a lot of unsightly damage. Damage can be done to your shingles, to your rafters , to the insulation and to the drywall in your ceilings if there is insufficient ventilation. Water can travel some distance as well. It may condense on a rafter and then run along the rafter to a location were it pools and then drips onto your ceiling. If the insulation is wet, then the insulation value is lost and it will not keep your home warm in the winter and cool in the summer.

An attic that is over heated will not only make it more expensive to cool your home, it will also prematurely cause your shingles to deteriorate more quickly. You might have 25 year shingles on the roof, but if there are insufficient vents on the roof, the shingles are not going to last anywhere near 25 years due to the additional heat index that they must withstand.

Sizes of Vents

Venmar offers various vent sizes. For example a vent that has 3 louvered vents will allow more air through than a vent that only has one louvered vent. Typically they are measured in terms of the number of square feet of attic space they will satisfy, assuming that there are sufficient soffit vents in place.  Some of the larger vents will provide up to 1200 square feet of space ventilation. If you have a large home with a large roof then you will want to have more vents to make sure that the air is circulating. They also come in various colors, so you should be able to match the vent with the color of your shingles and the rest of your home. Venmar offers black, gray and brown.

Birds and Animals

Most vents have already taken this into account , however you always want to think about the possibility of birds and squirrels getting into your attic through the vent. Check with the roofer or vendor of the attic vents to confirm that you will not have this problem with the vents that you are installing.

Installing a Ventilator on an Existing Roof

The first step is to decide how many vents you need to install and the locations on the roof were these vents will go.  The vent should be located so that the vent is extending just above the roof to ensure full ventilation of your attic. You will need to remove shingles above and beside the opening.  Cut the hole in the roof the size of the vent  and then apply tar around the opening were the vent base will be applied. The tar acts as a sealant as well as glue to hold the vent in place.

Slide the upper side of the base under the shingles on the high side of the roof. The vent base will sit on the lower shingles so that when it rains , the water will run off the vent onto the roof and down the roof. Nail the flat part of the base into the roof and then nail the shingles into the base of the vent using the standard shingle laying techniques.

Once the base is secure, you can mount the vent onto the base and secure it with screw nails provided for the installation,  so that wind will not dislodge the vent in any way.

Sealing the Roof Around the Ventilator for a New Roof

Applying a vent to a new roof is a bit easier since the shingles are not already on the roof. Cut the hole in the same manner, apply tar to the edge of the opening and apply the base to the opening as before. Nail the base to the roof so that the base and the tar form an excellent seal.

Apply the shingles in the standard manner making sure that the shingles at the bottom of the vent fit underneath the base on the bottom side so that rain will run down the vent onto the shingles and continue down the roof. Mount the vent onto the base, screw nail it in place and finish installing the new shingles.

With proper venting in place you will maximize your shingle life while at the same time minimizing the risk of condensation. Cooling and heating costs will also be minimized with the proper installation of attic vents.

If you are purchasing a new home, you need to pay attention to the type of window that is being installed. Avoid wood framed windows. Even though they are a little less expensive, there is no need to paint PVC windows and no need to replace them. Most new homes come with low maintenance windows, however you do need to check in your agreement specifications to confirm.

Maintaining Your Windows

Our existing windows are good quality windows, however they are framed with wood and need to be scraped and painted every few years. No one really likes to do this, however if you check the windows each year you will find that some will lose their paint faster than others. These are the windows you need to pay attention to. Our windows on the south side of the house get a lot of heat as well as freezing in the winter time. As a result the paint on the window sills will crack and peel allowing water to get at the wood and start the rotting process.

I have been checking my windows every year and repainting those that need it every year. After twenty two years even with this kind of care, we are finding that several our windows have started to deteriorate and it is time to replace them before serious damage to the underlying wooden sills start. As I mentioned earlier in the post, we are only replacing the windows that are starting to deteriorate.

Selecting a Vendor

Selecting a vendor can be like playing Russian Roulette. We had several come over and take measurements and provide us with quotes.  I asked each vendor to provide me with a written quote, to be sent to me by email. This works really well for some and not so well for others.

One window vendor wanted to quote me on the spot and ask me to sign a contract right there and then. Talk about pressure sales tactics. No time to look at the quality of the window, no time to examine references and to time to comparison shop. I asked him to send me his quote and I would consider it. We never heard from him again.

We ultimately choose Fenex Windows and Doors who provide their own product called FenPlast windows. We were able to go into their shop, talk to one off the installers who explained exactly how they would replace the windows and what we would have to paint afterwords. Essentially these are low maintenance windows and require no painting at all except for the inside trim which is already primed. You just have to paint the trim inside to match your color scheme.

We also were able to speak to several references they gave us. They did a great job installing, cleaning up after them and most of they were on time! In other words they arrived when they said they would, which is a huge problem with many contractors in today’s market.

Selecting Windows

Selecting windows is a lot more difficult. However there are ways to simplify it . For example if you have an existing double slider for example, you can change the design if you want or just stay with a double slider. In other words just change like for like. However before you make that decision, you really need to decide how well insulated you want your windows to be.

For example single sliders have just slightly higher ratings than double sliders for their energy ratings. You also need to decide if you are going with clear windows or with Low E, or Super HP windows to maximize your energy rating and energy savings. ER ratings are important and they act as a guide to show how much energy a window will allow to pass through it.

Most people are more concerned about the aesthetics of the windows and less about energy ratings. Everyone wants their homes to look great however when it comes to saving energy costs and to also maximize resale value, it pays to pay attention to these other factors as well.

We chose the Low E, super HP with Argon in between the window pains to maximize the energy conservation of the windows.

Finally there are various handles and window cranks that come with windows that open out. Instead of sliding these windows will turn on a hinge with the operation of a crank. One of the advantages of these windows is that they open far enough that you can reach out side and wash the fixed window. Beats getting a ladder outside and climbing up to wash the windows.

Results

So far we have replaced eight windows, all on the south side or the west side of the house. These windows were the first to deteriorate due to the heating and cooling cycles through the winter time months. It is too early to say if these new windows will have much of an impact on our heating and cooling bill.

We were very happy with the installation. The crew showed up on time and they were courteous, were very careful of the inside of our home while they were doing the installation and clean up was excellent. There were no nails or bits and pieces left after they were finished. Excellent job over all.

Fenex may be a little more expensive than some other vendors, however we were very pleased with the service and the products.

Repairs to Garage Door Openers

We have never had a problem mechanically with the garage door opener. The chain and the motor have been fine. We have had to replace the tension springs on the garage door several times, however technically they are not part of the garage door opener. Just to digress briefly, we use our garage door every day more than we do the front door. This activity puts a lot of additional wear and tear on the garage door opener as well as the garage door itself. The tension springs become brittle over time with lots of use and will snap suddenly and dramatically some times.

The problems we have had with the garage door opener is in fact with the printed circuit board inside the garage door opener. The first time it quit, I decided to take it apart to see what was wrong. I had nothing to lose. If I could not fix it, then I was looking at a new one for a cost of around $150 to $250 depending on the features. Well I was lucky. Turns out that there was a poor solder joint that had come loose and caused the garage door opener to stop working. All I had to do was re-solder the connection and presto we were back in business. I have been able to get away with this one more time, so not sure how much longer it will last. The message of course is always investigate before replacing. You never know what you can fix.

Replacing and Existing Garage Door Opener

Replacing an existing garage door opener is actually not that hard if you pay attention to the type you currently have. For example if you have a chain driven garage door opener, then select a new one with a chain. The new garage door opener will come with a new chain, and you should replace the existing chain with the new chain. Installation will often be easier since sprockets etc may not need to be changed. There are screw type garage door openers and belt driven garage door openers as well and there is nothing wrong with them, however it just means less work to replacing your existing garage door opener if you stick to the same basic design.

Check the Balance of your Garage Door

Sometimes a garage door opener will prematurely stop working and it may not be the garage door opener that was bad, rather the garage door was not balanced properly placing a higher load on the garage door opener.  Before you install your new garage door opener, always check the door itself to make sure it is properly balanced. You can tell if the garage door is well balanced, if you can open and close it with one hand, regardless of size. Even the double doors should pass this one hand test. If the spring tension is set properly they will handle the majority of the weight of the garage door allowing you to open and close it with one hand with ease.

With the garage door balanced, check that the bolts holding each section to the other are tight and not working loose. Confirm that the rollers are lubricated and rolling smoothly in line in their guides. Once these checks are done, you should be able to safely install and start your new garage door opener.

Types of Garage Door Openers

There are three different types of garage door openers to choose from. There are chain drive openers, screw type openers and belt type garage door openers. Prices for garage door openers range from the low $100′s to as much as $300 not installed. Most have the same features with the number of remotes being a differentiating factor along with the horsepower of the unit.

Belt drives and screw type garage door openers are generally quieter with most of the noise coming from the door itself as it opens or closes. In terms of accessories, most will come with one remote garage door opener control. Some of the more expensive garage door openers will have two 3 button remote controllers, perhaps a smart control panel, a wireless keyless entry system and a remote light control.

Keyless Entry Systems

We have found that the wireless keyless entry system was a very useful accessory especially while our kids were living at home. There were no keys constantly getting lost . All they had to do is remember the code and they were able to get into the house via the garage at any time of the day.

One fault of the keyless entry system ( it is really a human fault ) , is that these systems do not work if the power is turned off for some reason. Occasionally a circuit breaker would trip or the power in the neighborhood would go out and without a key, no one can get into the house! This actually happened to us on Christmas day with the turkey in the oven and the power off. We were next door having a drink with the neighbors when the power went out and no one had a key. It was off for several hours. Needless to say we had a few more drinks than planned and a much later Christmas dinner.

Always carry a key for the house with you even if you have a wireless keyless entry system for your garage door opener!

There are units that also come with stand buy batteries that are continually charged for just this type of situation. Unfortunately for us we had not invested in one of these more expensive models.

Today there are many different types of inserts or gas fireplaces available on the market. The basic gas fireplaces will have a switch on the wall or maybe even on the unit itself to turn them on. The fancier gas fireplaces come with remote controls which operate much in the same way your TV remote operates. Turn the power on remotely, set the desired temperature, even set the time that you want the fireplace to turn on or turn off. All of these fireplaces enhance your home and the room that they are in. There is something special about sitting around a fire on a cold winter night even if it is a gas fireplace.

Wood Fireplace Conversions

Most new homes today are being built with gas fireplaces already installed. You can order a wood fireplace as well , however once you have had a gas fireplace, you will never go back to wood. No fuss, no mess, no back drafts with soot all over etc.

Older homes however will generally have a wood fireplace installed. These are easily converted to gas. Consumers will have to make arrangements with a fireplace store to come out and measure the existing opening in your fireplace to confirm which gas fireplace insert can be installed. They are manufactured in various widths, heights and depth to fit just about all existing wood fireplaces. Aside from physically fitting the existing opening, you need to spend some time on what your fireplace will look like and how it will blend into the room. More on that later.

Once you have settled on a gas fireplace model, you or the store you are dealing with will need to make arrangements for shipment and installation. The main activities that need to be completed for your installation include:

Extending the gas piping in your home over to the location were the fireplace insert will be located. If you have an unfinished basement this is generally a pretty straightforward job. As the difficulty increases so does the cost.

Electrical wiring must also be extended from the main fuse panel to your fireplace. Electricity is required to power the fan that usually comes with your fireplace. The fan will force the air through and around the fireplace and into the room your fireplace is in to heat it faster. Your gas fireplace will even operate with out electrical power, however the forced air fan will not work.

Your chimney has been designed for a wood fireplace. The chimney flue will have to be changed to meet the requirements of the fireplace you are installing. This includes fresh air intake as well exhaust. Many installations will call for a smaller flue to be installed inside the existing chimney flue.

It is also possible that you may need to change your mantle or other decorative elements around the fireplace to accommodate either the gas fireplace  or your room design.

Selecting Your Gas Fireplace

Once you have determined the size of gas insert your existing wood fireplace can accommodate, your local fireplace store can show you various models that will fit into your home.

The fireplace will come with a glass window and fake fireplace logs or in some cases small  stones. In both cases, the gas flame is interspersed among and around the logs and / or stones. There also will be a small metal mantel which will go around your gas fireplace insert and cover any gap that is left after the insert is installed.

In our particular case, this metal mantel covers a significant portion of the existing marble facing. Obviously we are not happy with this situation and have been looking for a fabricator to manufacture a smaller mantel for us.

As we mentioned previously you can select fireplaces with remote controls. Add the remote control to your collection of TV , DVD etc remote controls. From your command center on the couch or easy chair you can control all of your comfort without have to move a leg!

Building Code

All building construction must follow a building code regardless of  what country you live in. The building code is designed to ensure that all building construction is completed in a safe manner and that the installation will not cause any structural, water or flammable damage to the building.

Your gas fireplace insert must also follow this code. The gas line installation, the electrical power installation , the gas insert and the chimney installation all must meet the code requirements of your local government. Some people may see this as an intrusion, however it is really to protect you and your family as well as your investment. If you are not sure of the code requirements or are concerned that the installer may not be following code, you can make arrangements for an inspector to inspect your gas fireplace installation.

Fireplace Installations in the Basement

The basement is typically the coldest area of any home. Adding a free standing gas fireplace can not only warm the room up, but add a beautiful ambiance to your basement family room.  There are many types of fireplaces that can be added. Free standing units, column fireplaces with 3 sides, fireplaces with front and back sides visible are just a few of those that are available. Each have their own particular installation requirements however your local fireplace store can help you with your decision.

The investment in a gas fireplace insert is well worth the money and most consumers will receive years of enjoyment from them.

Today we’re focusing on solar powered hot water heaters, evacuation tubes, and of course tankless water heaters. Tankless water heaters usually still use some kind conventional energy source, but nonetheless, they are much “greener” than the conventional water heaters.

It was the purchase of our Toyota Prius that got me thinking about other ways I can really stick it to the oil and coal companies. The cost of some of these domestic solar water heaters can really get up there, but still I want to look at getting it installed in my house. I’m also not sure how well it would work in Calgary, Alberta. We don’t get as much hot sun as the warmer climates get. I see there are solar water heating systems that can be used for colder climates as well.

Along with all of these interesting questions comes the another one – which brands of solar hot water heating systems actually work as advertised, and which ones DON’T??!! Below is just a small list of solar water heater brands. Keep in mind there are other brands we talk about here, on our Ec0-Friendly Water Heater Mini Site

List of Solar Water Heater Brands

• Dux
• Bosch
• Lowes (whatever brands they carry)
• Home Depot (whatever brands they carry)
• Ronas (whatever brands they carry in Canada)
• Helio-Pak
• Quality Smith
• Siddons
• Solex
• Sun Volts

Do Want An Active OR; Passive Solar Water Heater?

From what I have read on the Internet, there are two main types of solar water heating systems – the Active system, or the Passive system. What each system does I don’t know, but you can read allot more on the site we’re promoting today. A quick definition that explains the difference between an active system and a passive system, would be this;

Passive solar energy systems use the architectural design, natural materials, or absorptive structures of a building as an energy-saving system. The building itself serves as a solar collector and storage device. An example would be thick-walled stone and adobe dwellings that slowly collect heat during the day and gradually release it at night. Another example of a passive solar energy system is a greenhouse. Passive systems require little or no investment of external equipment.

Active solar energy systems require a solar collector (a device used to store energy) and controls linked to pumps or fans that draw heat from storage as necessary. Active solar systems generally pump a heat-absorbing fluid (air, water, or an antifreeze solution) through a collector.

That quote was found on the Enotes site (thanks!)

Now What About DIY Solar Water Heating Systems

So what about it? Lots! That’s what!!! You can find oodles of information on DIY (Do-It-Yourself) solar water heating systems. Just use the magic of Google, Yahoo!, or Bing to find out more. You can even have a VERY basic system made from bottles if you want, which you can see in the inset picture here, or read about it here. Needless to say, it can be done yourself, if you have the time, basic resources, and a little bit of money to seed the project.

For plans, instructions, and diagrams on how to build your own solar water heating system, I would go to this page at builditsolar.com

It looks like a whole bunch of fun making solar systems to heat up your water supply. Kind of feel like Swiss Family Robinson book (or movie). Always thought it would be fun to make a home by myself in the woods. Creating tools, and creating little inventions to make your life better, easier, and more comfortable. Anyway…..I digress.

Some of the kits that I found to be easy to setup would be like the $1000 dollar DIY solar water heating system. This is of course on the same web site. See this $5 dollar solar water heating system too!!

Then there is the commercial brands that you can install yourself, or have a company install for you. A perfect example would be the Helio-Pak Active Solar Water Heater System, which you see even more details on at the Solardirect.com site. We have a seperate page just for the Solar Direct Company as well if you are at all interested in their solar water heating product lists.

No matter how you slice it, “going solar” is very exciting, and worthwhile in so many ways. You can see from the DIY rescources online that the people of our world, with the use of the Internet, are taking it in their own hands and creating solar water heating systems for themselves and not waiting for companies like Lowes, Home Hardware, Home Depot, Ronas, Sears, Wal-mart, or Canadian Tire to produce and sell.

My wife Betty and I started on a Friday morning removing our furniture, home theatre system, carpet and underlay from our living room. By Friday evening our floor was down.

Here are some pics of the finished floor. Click to enlarge! 

On the Saturday morning we did the baseboards, cocked them, and painted them. Little tip here just in case you are  replacing carpet and underlay with Trafficmaster planks.

When you remove your carpet and underlay you will notice your baseboards are way too high on the wall. After you have layed your Trafficmaster floor you still see the baseboards are too high. Don’t go through the hassle of removing the baseboards and replacing them, and don’t worry about buying new baseboards. Just leave the old one where they are.

Then go down to the hardware store (Home Depot….whatever) and buy some molding to nail on the bottom of the original baseboards. Mask – cock – and paint all one color. No-one will ever know that it’s not one baseboard. High reaching baseboards seem to be “in” these days too, so it’s all good.

We moved our furniture back in and by Saturday night we were finished. I did allot of Internet research first and made a phone call or two using the 1-800 # provided on the back of the Trafficmaster boxes.

I thought we have to use underlay……we did not.

I thought we would have to remove the the baseboards……we did not.

I thought it would take all weekend to install the floor……it did not.

This was easy to install from beginning to end, and I highly recommend Allure for your new flooring project. We bought the Allure flooring at Home Depot.

So now I have to shut-up and put out. My wife found this TrafficMaster flooring at Home Depot (of course), and she was impressed by its rating on some of the DIY home improvement shows.

So the first thing I’m doing is removing the old carpet, underlay, etc. Then I think I’ll put a very thin underlay used in most laminate jobs. Then we’ll install the Trafficmaster Chocolate fake slate.

One thing I notice is the that after the the underlay and carpet is removed, there is a one inch drop-off from the old flooring that meets with this room. Have to look into this. I’ll be making a video and taking some pictures of the install.

Will update this as we go along.

 Home Theater

Home theater systems are commonplace these days. It wasn’t long ago when it was a novelty to see even a 3.1 surround system in a friend’s home. Now it’s normal to see at least a 5.1 surround sound speaker system in the average family home.

The rage these days is a full fledged home theater system, with a 7.1 speaker configuration , an HD (high definition plasma/LCD flat screen, and wireless rear speakers. Many people don’t really care about high definition big screens, or even rear speakers, but yet other consumers want nothing but the best. It all comes down to how much TV you watch, and how expensive a system you can afford to buy.  

Home Theatre Systems – Cheap or Expensive?

The price of home theater systems has dropped considerably in the last decade, so you’re not going to be stuck with a big investment for a darn good system. If you need to have a “big name home theater system “, you can dig deep into your bank account and empty your wallet in the blink of an eye. You can spend up to $100,000 or more if you get into the highest end home theater systems. Here we’re talking about the average consumer level systems.      

Bose is on the expensive side, while Panasonic is on the cheap side. Philips is in the “dirt cheap” category. JVC, Sony, Goodmans, Yamaha, come in the middle and all in between. We recommend you go down to your local home entertainment dealership, and ask to experience their home theater show room demos. Keep in mind that these show-rooms are build specifically for a perfect audio visual experience. You are not likely to get this kind of high end level sound in your living room, which has various obstructions and dimensions unlikely to be conducive to a home theater application. However, you’ll still end up with great sound and picture if you buy some decent equipment. 

Below is short menu of home theater systems for you to review:

• Bose Home Theater Systems
• Sony Bravia Home Theater Systems
• Onkyo Home Theater Systems
• Goodmans Home Theater Systems
• Panasonic Home Theater Systems
• Philips Home Theater Systems

Best of luck finding a good sale/deal on your desired home theater system. Thanks for coming by to visit.